A BAJA FISHING ADVENTURE TRIP TO CABO SAN LUCAS

Dec. 12, 2004, Jeff Steinke, Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico Fishing Trip Report:

December is when the Sierra, or Spanish Mackerel, arrive in numbers along the coast of the most southern tip of Baja known as “the lands end” at Cabo San Lucas. This past December they would have company as I planned my latest Cabo San Lucas fishing adventure to coincide with their arrival.

The trip down from the winter wasteland known as Canada was uneventful. Even with multiple connections and transferring to three different aircraft the trip went smoothly. This time the route took us over the center of the northern mainland where deep rugged mountains and the Copper Cannon lie. It was very remote looking.

I had previously arranged three back-to-back fishing days, for when we arrived at Cabo San Lucas and quickly met my fishing buddies from back home at their hotel for our first morning of marlin fishing. Gerald and Don had also experienced good flights and were eager for their first ocean fishing experiences.

We found our designation point with our Cabo San Lucas fishing boat the “Tracy Ann” from the Pisces fleet and we were quickly on our way out of the harbor. Our crew explained the fishing situation and we decided that striped marlin would be the action plan and this 31 foot Bertram was fast and obviously well rigged for what we came to do.

We traveled north from Cabo San Lucas to a location known as the Golden Gate Bank. Julio and Eduardo were quick to select the right spot on the seamount and we sent 10-inch mackerels down deep with large three oz. torpedo sinkers. It took less than ten minutes for Julio the captain to quickly hand Don a rod that was hooked to marlin jumping for its freedom. After the twenty minute fight Don had released his first marlin. There would be no way to wipe the grin from his face from this point on.

Soon we repositioned on the seamount and we quickly fly lined some bait and sunk a couple deep baits once again while the first mate Eduardo continued to catch fresh bait for the live well. Julio once again hooked up and now Gerald was battling his first marlin. Another twenty-minute fight of fantastic aerial displays and the fish was brought to boat side and released. Gerald now displayed a similar grin that had entrenched Don’s face. Wow, within a couple of hours we had landed two Cabo San Lucas marlin for my first time fishing mates. It was obvious this was a crew with precision fishing expertise.

With our success brought other boats to the location and soon our crew left the bank for quieter waters. Now we began to troll after a quick ride south into a pool of warmer water. I had opened my fishing tackle bag to show Eduardo my new Allure Petrolero colored marlin jigs. He wasted no time to rig four of the nine inch models into the spread. Petrolero’s are a favored colored marlin jig in these waters and I had done my homework to have an assortment. Previous trips to the East Cape paved the way for me to have a good selection of these baits. My mind wandered back to the first Petrolero I had bought at Minerva’s Tackle in Cabo a few years previous. I had paid over fifty bucks for that first jig and took it with me to my first good exposure for marlin at El Cardonal fishing with Vicente Lucero Lucero on his super panga. That first Petrolero landed all the marlin caught on lures that trip. A few were caught on live bait, but that lure tore them up even with my partner’s dismay when I had produced the very expensive lure. He became a believer along with me, of the power of matching the hatch even for marlin.

My daydreaming of those days past at El Cardonal was interrupted when one of the Petrolero’s was attached to a Cabo San Lucas marlin headed for Hawaii or somewhere far out to sea. I worked the marlin quickly and within another twenty minutes the brightly colored fish was boat side. This fish was quickly brought onto the deck for a quick snapshot and released. Three marlin day one and we were stoked! On the return troll towards Cabo San Lucas we missed a dorado strike and watched our first sighting of a whale. The whales were just returning to the area like snowbirds from Canada. It was good to be alive!

After returning to Cabo San Lucas, I met up with my family for a little R and R around the pool at the lovely timeshare Pueblo Bonita Sunset beach.

The next morning found us on the 38-foot Bertram “El Rebelde” from the Cabo Magic fleet. Our original boat the Cabo Magic was still not ready to fish because a new engine was being put in.

This 38 footer was very spacious and we quickly headed to the marlin spot that most of the Cabo San Lucas boats were gathered at, due to captain Julio’s advise. This area was about nine miles south of the Cabo San Lucas lighthouse and indeed it did have many marlin feeding along with the frigate birds giving away their location. We jumped between bird feeding locations to see reappearing marlin bait chasers, we quickly threw live mackerel at the spots and soon we were hooked up. Al my father in-law, was with the three of us and he was soon battling a marlin. After a thirty-four minute battle the fish was subdued enough to get the bait hook out, we released another billfish to fight another day.

The running and gunning for feeding marlin and a slightly smoky diesel engine had us all mildly seas sick. Don tangled with another fish that dug deep for the most part and made for a long battle. After three quarters of an hour we had released our fifth fish so far in two days. We were happy with the day’s results.

We stopped by the office for Cabo Magic and Lori Garcia was happy to relate that our boat the famous Cabo Magic would be taking its maiden voyage with a new engine with us aboard the next morning. We were stoked!

The next morning we met up at Senior Greenberg’s restaurant close to the Cabo San Lucas dock. After a nice breakfast that was becoming routine we met our anxious crew consisting of Captain Hector the fish collector and his first mate Roberto who had not been to sea in two weeks. We explained that we had caught five marlin so far and we would like to catch another species along with marlin if we could. After loading up with fresh bait we motored south from Cabo San Lucas, far out to sea in pursuit of Tuna that were few and far between during our stay. After searching for a few fruitless hours we headed towards the lands end to pursue a marlin. They related to us that a raging marlin bite was going on and they were confident they could get us into the melee if we desired. When we arrived at the spot we had fished the previous day there were many boats working the area where the frigate birds were soaring from the skies to intercept the marlin pushing bait to the surface.

Roberto and Hector were awesome to watch as they had a gift to bait a marlin to take our offerings. We hooked three fish quickly as they expertly worked the fish. After three more marlin that put smiles on my two Cabo San Lucas fishing mates and myself, we headed closer to shore to hunt for dorado. Roberto also liked my marlin lures and put the Petrolero’s into his trolling spread. He also really liked my pink Alien marlin lure and that was later attacked four times by a hungry marlin. We never landed that biter but it was fun while it lasted.

It was great to be on board as the 35 foot Bertram slipped into port at Cabo San Lucas. Many other captains and dock personal stopped their duties around the dock and cheered as we all happily cruised into our slip. Hector and Roberto were obviously pumped and proudly flying the colors of three released striped marlin on their first day back to sea. It was great!

We stopped by the office and related to Lori that we were extremely happy with our experiences with the Cabo Magic fishing fleet. This was a topnotch service they provided and I will use their fleet once again.

After dinner that evening I exchanged goodbyes with my fishing mates. The cold winter wasteland was going to be graced with their appearances long before I would, but they were now hooked on this place along with the people and fish they had met. Both my mates were eager to know when we would be back. Not soon enough as far as they were concerned and the twinkle in their eye was gleaming when they turned to leave. Adios my Amigos. We’ll see you in the winter wasteland.

My Cabo San Lucas surf fishing experience was now brought to the front and center, and I was excited to break out the gear I had brought with me. My new pool side friend Eric from Colorado was also eager for me to get done with my boat fishing so we could pursue the fish right in front of the timeshare where we were staying. The selection of my Cabo San Lucas timeshare was solely based on its location. Here a few miles from town on the Pacific side, Pueblo Bonita had built a brand new hotel with exclusive access to one of the top beaches for shore fishing in all of Mexico according to the message boards and the Internet.

The book “The Baja Catch” had inspired my fishing mate and myself to begin our Baja exploration five years earlier. The Internet and previous trips to the cape area had focused my attention to shore fishing and this beach was as good as it gets, according to many.

Pueblo Bonita Sunset Beach was a sore spot with other local Cabo San Lucas fisherman because they had bought up all the access and attempted to shut down the shore fishing on the beach to all. The locals were pissed and rightly so because according to Mexican law no one owns the federal land along the beaches in Baja. But there was no good way to access the beach anymore.

The hotel security questioned me to where was my access point at first. There were many signs that had relayed that “No Pescar”. I explained the law was well understood by me and they left me alone but kept and eye on me most mornings. It was uncommon for a guest to fish from the hotel apparently. Most were there for the pool, spa or whatever else they did. For me it was the beach and my desire to catch a large Sierra right from the beach.

needlefish. I had hooked two sierras and a large pargo but never landed anything. We worked the Cabo San Lucas surf using hoochies and Krocodile spoons but our casting distance was painfully not enough.

roosterfish beating bait into a frenzy, and feeding heavily about a hundred yards out. I could cast about forty yards and felt terrible due to my ignorance at the situation.

Soon I was approaching into half my stay and my new friend Eric and his family left for home. Now I was completely on my own to figure out the situation. During my Cabo San Lucas beach fishing exploits with Eric I had seen a few other fisherman on the next beach Pedregal. These two fellows could cast very far and seemed to fit right in with the scene. For our first encounters casual hellos and grunts were exchanged as I moved past their location. After a few encounters I could no longer control my urge to invade their space. I stopped at their stake out and boldly told them I was failing at my quest and needed their help since they appeared like they knew exactly how to capitalize with their surroundings.

I can still picture their glares as their worked me over with eyes and thoughts. Gladly to me they slowly opened up and allowed me to sit with them a spell. Cautiously they filled me in on a need to know basis and slowly let a few secrets come to light.

With time I learned Cabo Joe was a retired fellow from California. Paco was a captain of a private fifty-foot fishing Yacht and both were avid Cabo San Lucas beach fisherman. With more time we exchanged stories and experiences and I drank in their wisdom with vigor. I had struck gold with my new friendship and my excitement was over bearing. With their guidance I made a trip to town to the great surf fishing tackle shop next to the Mar de Cortez Hotel. Stephan Jansen had the lures I needed and knew full well how to rig them exactly the way Joe and Paco preferred.

Armed the right stuff (3 oz. Silver Rangers from Roberts Lures) I was on the beach before daylight. Joe had related that taping ones index finger with duck tape was the norm and how to cast a large bait properly. Also the instructions to skip the lure over the surface quickly ruled out all but one rod and reel I had brought. In the dark I readied myself and began with their teachings.

On the second cast I hooked up and was almost spooled before loosing the fish in the predawn darkness. With a cast or two I was hooked up again and this time I fought the fish like I had been a regular on this beach. I was awed by its power and thought my twenty-pound test would not be sufficient. I had respooled with this smaller line due to my new friends advice. The fish fought and I reeled and adjusted my drag to handle such a speedy quarry. I was surprised at the size of the sierra that was soon flopping in the surf with me. I grabbed the fish and struck for the safety of the dry sand and laid the beast next to my pack. Here lay a beautiful fish that resembled a trout from back home with its yellow spots and slick skin. Its huge power tail stuck out, along with rows of wickedly sharp teeth. From past Cabo San Lucas fishing trips down here I knew the quality of its meat was top notch but I had never seen one so big. In fact I had never seen one half this size.

My excitement was powerful as I did a dance and let out a success howl loud enough to gather the Pueblo Bonita beach cops attention. But they seemed as elated as myself when they saw the beast and explained it was an awesome fish they considered the best in the ocean. Ceviche from sierra was considered a delicacy and a strong aphrodisiac to the Mexican culture.

I was beaming as I closed the distance to the next beach to show Joe and Paco the fish and to thank them for what had transpired. I dragged the long twelve-pound fish happily along the surf even though my arm was very tired as I closed the distance. After winding my way through the rocks that separated the two beaches I could see they were in the same place I had previously left them the day before. An osprey eyed my catch as he sat perched high up on one of rocks as I passed by and I scanned forward to my two waiting human forms that sat perched on one of the sand points built up by the surf. Like two osprey’s, they waited for some sign from the sea to make for the surf and to cast when the time was right.

Joe was obviously happy with my success and beamed with enthusiasm. He was the success behind the fish and bantered with Paco and me about it. This was a large sierra and they let me know it. Now they knew I was real too and they made me feel it with even more knowledge and secrets to fast track me with good success. It was beyond great!

Our daily encounters with my new friends were awesome. I loved dragging a new fish with me when we met up and they taught me more great stuff with time. Soon I met their friend Bill who lived in casa right next to the beach. We all enjoyed great stories and these guys made me feel warm with enthusiasm and their kind friendship. They were first class people who were wary of the many tourists that now shared their beach and rightly so. They did recognize something in me and I am forever grateful to be taken into their confidence.

We toyed with the idea on using Joe’s 24-foot angler, center console, to expand my fast track to ocean fishing, but we ran out of time. Hopefully next time they will teach me seamanship skills on a future visit.

Back at the Cabo San Lucas condo I eagerly expelled my new experiences with my family as they exchanged theirs also. We had done many neat things together during the daylight periods. Swimming, snorkeling, horseback ridding, shopping etc.

I also arranged the Tracy Ann for another day to take my two girls and wife on a Cabo San Lucas ocean experience. My girls were wide eyed even though the five o’clock arise time was way out of their time schedule.

Once again the crew met us eagerly and we were whisked out of the Cabo San Lucas harbor. I explained that we needed to catch some smaller fish like tuna even though they were scarce during our stay. They throttled up and we bee-lined it for 35 miles or so south of Cabo San Lucas. We were the only Cabo San Lucas fishing boat in sight and the Tracy Ann’s speed was appreciated to get us so far out to sea so quickly. The Petrolero’s were deployed like all the other days as we searched for the tuxedo porpoise that accompanied the tuna. Soon they found the porpoise and before we could exchange the lures for cedar plugs and tuna feathers we had a triple hook up and my eight-year girl Carly landed a tuna in the 35 to forty pound range. The porpoise school was huge and the girls were astounded to be that close to wildly spinning porpoise and slashing tuna. As we deployed more baits like cedar plugs, a lone Petrolero was hooked again. Carly who brought in a duplicate fish like her last, shown with glory. We quickly worked the rods and managed to get five or six more on and my wife and I each landed a tuna each. I lost a large one that was clearly my best tuna to date and I saw another fish eat bait next to the boat that had to push a hundred pounds. Just as fast as it began it had ended. We trolled through the porpoise for another hour but the tuna had gone down. We were happy, as we had done what we had set out to do. My four year old wanted a chance at one but she seemed a little small to work a tuna so maybe next time.

The chop had risen quickly and we slid sideways with the waves to get closer to shore and behind the cape at Cabo San Lucas for some protection from the wind. We arrived at the marlin spot nine miles south of the Cabo San Lucas lighthouse only to find a frustrating situation with way too many boats working the spot. The crew fired up the engines and blasted north even though it was one o’clock and we were almost out of time. They were not finished yet as Eduardo related he wanted us to catch some marlin also.

We traveled north away from the Cabo San Lucas boats and went closer to shore and north towards the Golden Gate Bank. We slowed and put out the Petrolero’s for a few minutes while we scanned the area for a sign. Within minutes frigate birds were spiraling down to the surface and many large black porpoise were near us that seemed to just suddenly appear. In mixed were many marlin around the boat and they swung the boat sideways. I pulled in the Petrolero’s while the first mate threw live bait into wake behind us. We were hooked up and I grabbed the rod only to be encouraged to hand it and the chair off to my wife. The first mate was rapidly trying to get my Baja belt around my waist as my wife settled in for her first marlin fight. It was then that I was beckoned to the front of the Tracy Ann when the captain had just hooked a large marlin from the front. I fought standup from the front and Judy fought from the back. It was great to be on a playing level of this type with a good striper and within a half hour I was in the back fighting next to Judy as her fish was expiring her strength. She landed hers finally and soon mine was boat side also. This was one of my best marlins to date and now I was one short of making my marlin count an even dozen.

When the fight was over the engines were fired up, we saw a pod of whales fining at us along the coast back to Cabo San Lucas. My girls were beaming heavily from the experience and my daughter is tickled that she came away with the largest tuna especially compared to her dads. I think we have created a future ocean fishing partner for me in her. She is hooked!

As the Cabo San Lucas days counted down to the end of my journey and fishing sabbatical it happened as I was marching back in forth in front of my timeshare working the surf. I had lost a large sierra and was back in the same location where it had previously happened. The long cast found the Ranger way out there and a huge boil instantly erupted. I worked the lure frantically hoping for the fish to clobber the fast skipping bait. The lure was right in the crest in the last remaining wave when it happened. As the lure crested the wave and I was running out of retrieval room I let the bait flutter into the clear water wave. Suddenly a large Cabo San Lucas roosterfish was seemingly slapping up my bait. I only had thirty yards until the fish would be out of water and rapidly picked up the pace. The fish went from acting like a school ground thug and quit slapping up the bait and it went for the kill. Its wide mouth seemed to clamp down on the Ranger and I set the hook. The hook quickly skidded to my feet and I never really felt the fish. I should have known better because small mouth bass exhibit the same display as this rooster and I know very well to not set the hook until you solidly feel the fish. I should have closed my eyes. That enormous rooster was almost beached at my feet before it spun around and headed back out to sea. Its huge rooster fin was up and it was massive. The mouth was massive and I am sure he could of fit my head in it if he so desired.

My knees shook wildly as I tried to frantically cast to this fish that was no longer in sight. It all seemed so unreal and so wild that the feelings were upwelling in me. I soon found a point of sand along the surf and just stared out to sea. Soon another pod of whales was cruising by and I waited in the sun and Cabo San Lucas surf for a sign that never appeared. This was one of most glorious mornings of my existence and it was powerful to say the least. I had no one there to share it with and I never did land any fish that morning. But that did not matter.

After meeting up with Joe, he must have been able to see my newfound persona and was elated to share rooster info and stories with me. Later he would show me his moments that he had captured on film at his hacienda. Pictures of huge roosters with a beaming Joe and his close companions were shared and he knew the feelings I had. It was freaking unreal!

I have caught roosters before including a couple of large fish pushing 35 pounds on the East Cape. These fish were caught from a boat using bait and was fun in itself but was pale in comparison to what I had experienced. I have no idea how big that fish was but it was huge. The majority of roosters I have caught on the East Cape were punks in comparison and would be considered bait to the beast that almost beached himself. I can only wait and re-gear for my next encounter on Sunset Beach.

One morning I managed to implement the last wave flutter trick quite well and found some willing jacks that would rise up to whack the bait. Even though they were not huge, they did fight well. Next time I hope to be there when larger jacks are patrolling the Cabo San Lucas beach.

On my last evening in Cabo, Joe wanted a boat experience for me that I could not forget. Paco was a captain and every year they have a local’s captain and first mate fishing derby for sierra. I was now going to be part of team. Fishing would be done from a Cabo San Lucas panga and a bait panga to boot. Two hours before dark was the rule and we gladly entered up the entry fee. Paco arranged the boat and the bait and we found ourselves smack in the middle of a captain’s derby. We rounded the cape and headed for the location where I was landing big sierra. We worked the beach in the location but to no avail. Soon we worked our way back to a location where the birds and small sierra were working the cape along with many pangas that were full of locals trying to win the cash prize. I stuck with the Ranger and hoped for a big fish but Paco who brought along his young boy of eight years was working a 3X salsa/blue colored cast iron jig. His Mexican friend who owned the bait panga attempted to keep the small sierra school around our boat with sardinas.

The sea lions were working overtime on stealing fish from the anglers but a good bite was happening in the choppy seas. Joe and myself spent more time retying and trying to stay safe in the rocking panga to catch any sierra but Paco who handed his boy the rod when ever he hooked up landed three sierra.

We left the sierra, sea lion melee and tried a spot they saved for last but the fish were not there. We had run out of time and soon we were on Cabo San Lucas' Medano beach along with the many captains from the local boats. I noticed Hector the fish collector was there who had been fishing next to us at times. His fish was no larger than ours and we exchanged smiles at our catches. The darkness was deep upon us as the winner was declared and then another fish was laid on the scale. Confusion over the time limit erupted and machine gun fire Spanish was abound but they seem to peacefully declare a true champ at 6.8 pounds and everybody was in good spirits except maybe the prematurely declared winner.

Joe was right; this was an experience I would not forget.

That evening (my last) Joe taught me the finer art of properly consuming small quantities of fine tequila using a traditional chaser. It was great to spend my last night with such fine company and I will relish my time with Joe forever. The last morning found me back on the beach. I was down to one good surf lure left. It was a Cabo Killer made by local Stephan Jansen. It is very similar in nature to a Ranger and I was a little worried only have one good lure left. With in the hour of dawn the hook did its job and I set in to another large Cabo San Lucas sierra. With in seconds the line was screaming out and then bam. The drag was too tight and the speeding fish broke the line. I sat on the beach for a while and then turned and left the beach with a smile. It was over! I left with a huge grin even though I never landed a thing that last morning before my flight.

It was almost a crime to have returned to the winter wasteland, but such is life. This is where we live at least for now. Look out when I retire though because the sea will be my preferred location once it happens. For now though, I need to rig up for my next adventure and prepare for some future trips back there soon. Lets see, Next December once again if Joe is in town and then to Punta Colorada with my buddies a year from this May for ten days. This time I will be armed with Joe and Paco’s knowledge and the surf fish will meet a serious angler when I get there. I shall be ready.

Baja is where life can be as good as it gets.